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Shade sails have curved edges that reduce the overall size of the sail. Long, skinny shapes don't have enough fabric to account for the curve and still provide shade. The rule of thumb is that the shortest side should be no less than 1/2 the length of the longest side. For example, if you have a triangle with the longest side of 20', the shortest side should be at least 10'. You would not want to design a triangle 20' x 20' x 9' or 20' x 20' x 8' etc. Can you have a shade sail with straight edges? Yes you can, but the trade-offs are loose edges, loose fabric in the interior of the sail, and a generally sloppy appearance in addition to a reduced lifespan of the sail. Tip: The shortest side should be at least 1/2 the length of the longest side.

Don't use 2 triangles to fit a square or rectangular space. Triangles are inefficient at providing shade when compared to squares. ​ Most people think of triangles when they think of shade sails, so it's natural for them to want to see designs based around triangles. If you consider a square area, 2 triangles offer 20% less shade than a square sail due to the gap in between the sails. ​ If your customer insists on having a triangle design, try offering them the alternative of a HyPar square sail, which will have a triangular appearance when viewed from the side. Tip: You can also offer a design where the square sail does the work of providing shade with an accent triangle thrown in for appearance.

Flat sails move more in the wind than sails with height differences. This can cause premature failure of the sail fabric due to mechanical breakdown as well as excess wear and tear on the hardware. A shade sail with different attachment heights looks better and will last longer than a flat sail. ​ The rule of thumb is to divide the side length by 6 and use this number for the height difference. For example, if you have a 20' side, the height difference between posts should be 40". (20 feet x 12 inches in a foot divided by 6 = 40). These dynamic sails are stronger and don't move in the wind.

Don't design sails to be the same size as the space they cover, they will be too small. The sun is in different positions depending on the time of day and the season, but shade sails are made to stay put. To help your design overcome these changes in the sun's path, make the sails at least 25% larger than the space to be shaded. You should also consider carefully choosing where to place your high and low attachment points in order to maximize the shade depending on your customer's needs. For example, to prevent unwanted sun in the afternoon, place your lowest post towards the South or West. Top: These triangles are too small and don't properly cover the intended space. Bottom: This 4-point sail extends beyond the patio and provides ample shade for the intended space.

Sometimes you don't have the luxury of infinite height differences. If you are limited in the height of your attachment points, it can be tempting to place sails close together - don't do it. ​ As with most aspects of sail installation, it's not the beautiful calm day that you need to worry about. Storm winds cause problems and will push the sails up and down. If your sails are too close together, they will rub, and shade cloth does not stand up to abrasion very well. Tip: The rule is to keep your sails at least 3' apart to avoid chafing on windy days.​

From a design perspective, your shade sails will look much better if the seams all run in the same direction. ​ Your attention to the details in any work you do will be worth the effort. ​ Shade sails are a piece of art, whether in a residential setting or a commercial installation.

If you use undersized turnbuckles, you may have difficulty getting them tight. You will probably seize the threads and won't be able to loosen or tighten them later if needed. ​ Resist the temptation to save money on hardware. ​ If you are in doubt, go one size up. You'll save time, money, and prevent headaches further down the road. Top: Hardware corner with D Ring Thimble, Stainless Steel Cable and Clamps, Bow Shackle, Turnbuckle, and Safety Wire Attachment. Bottom: Hardware corner with poorly fitted Cable, D Ring Thimble, and Bow Shackle.

Shade sails are not the same as awnings w()here some of the stress is supported by a frame. ​ Shade sails are tensioned structures where the stitching is critical. ​ Make sure your sails are sewn with lifetime warranty PTFE thread.

The shade sail itself is the strongest part of the project. If you use undersized posts, there is a good chance that storm winds will bend the posts. ​ This causes all sorts of problems, starting with a loose sail. A loose sail can move violently in a storm, causing hardware to fail. If your hardware fails, you will have a long whip flailing around damaging property. Tip: Consult an engineer if you are unsure of the proper size post to use for your project.

The weak link of a shade sail project is usually the footing. Footings can become loose from being undersized, being installed where the ground is often saturated by irrigation water, or being installed in loose fill dirt conditions. ​ The rule of thumb is to have 1/3 of your post length buried in a footing with 2/3 of your post above ground. For example, if your post is 12' above ground, you should have 6' below ground. Tip: Always consult an engineer if you are unsure of the proper footing size to use for your project.